Automatic Translation

Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Day 17: Colle Val d'Elsa - Monteriggioni

16 km
 
 
Leaving the monastery of San Francesco
 
 
 
What every walker wants to see in the morning!
 
 
Walking along the walls of Colle di Val d'Elsa

 
  
On today's walk we were joined by my daughter Sara

 
 
 
We passed a field of late-blooming sunflowers
 
 
 
 
Castel Petraia
 
 
Abbadia a Isola
 
Abbadia a Isola is an abbey founded by Cistercian monks in 1001 on an "island" of dry land in the middle of what was at that time a swamp. It took the monks centuries to reclaim the land and make it suitable for cultivation. In 1376 the city of Siena fortified the monastery with walls to protect it from bandits.
 
 
The abbey declined in importance after 1500, which protected the interior from being covered over with Baroque superfetations.
 
 
 
In July Sara played in a concert in the abbey, and we found one of the posters for the concert!
 
 
Fellow pilgrims from Quebec, travelling the Via Francigena by bicycle
 

 
Back on the road again, heading for Monteriggioni, visible on the horizon
 

   
Approaching Monteriggioni


 

We were very lucky to occupy the last available beds at the hostel run by the parish of Santa Maria Assunta right in the central square within the walls of Monteriggioni. From our bedroom window we enjoyed a wonderful view of the square. I promptly ruined tourists' photo opportunities by washing my dirty socks and hanging them up to dry in the window.

 
The hostel bedroom
 
Upon arrival we discovered that the hostel had a well-equipped kitchen, complete with industrial-sized pots and pans for making large quantities of pasta, and our first thought was to make dinner for all the pilgrims who had been walking with us over the past few days. Domenico did a quick survey of the shops in the old town and reported a total absence of fresh fruit and vegetables, but there were plenty of little shops selling specialty products for tourists and we managed to get together all the ingredients we needed from those - at some expense! All that was missing was an onion. We engaged the gardener at the hostel complex to provide us with an onion from the kitchens of the restaurant next door, and got cooking!
 

A great variety of Pecorino cheeses available at the little food shop in Monteriggioni
 
 
A pilgrims' dinner party
 
 
 
A complication! As we were clearing up after dinner, Anna Gandolfi, the lady who had checked us into the hostel, came up looking for Sara. She was not only acting as hostel check-in person but holding an exhibition of her own paintings on the ground floor, and some American tourists had come by wanting to buy one, but without knowing any English, she found herself in difficulty. Sara came to the rescue as translator and was rewarded for her efforts with this floral composition.
 
Beautiful! But.... how to carry it to Siena?
 
Luckily the two French girls who had checked into the hostel just as we were about to sit down to dinner - of course we invited them to join us - were taking the bus to Siena the next morning, so they took the painting and met up with Sara to deliver it to her in the afternoon, after we had walking the remaining leg of the hike to Siena.
 
On the same evening, I met Franco Cinti, one of the authors of the guidebook I have been following all the way! He had come to the hostel to meet some visitors from Victoria, B.C. - on the island where I lived as a teenager - whom he had met when visiting Victoria last summer. We had a chat and I asked him to sign the book for me.
 
 

Monday, September 21, 2015

Day 16: Gambassi - San Gimignano - Colle Val d'Elsa

26 km

The morning's trek

Leaving Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta in Chianni bright and early





Harvest time


San Gimignano in the distance


Just before San Gimignano, the lovely Pieve di Santa Maria in Cellole (1238)


Pilgrims at the Pieve






If you need anything, just ring the bell!


The towers of San Gimignano


 
Most of the pilgrims stopped in San Gimignano for the day, but Domenico and I had seen the town before and couldn't stand being amongst crowds of tourists, so we headed out the city gate towards Colle Val d'Elsa.


 
In this section there are 3 different possible routes. We took the one that would take us to Colle Val d'Elsa, where my daughter Sara was to join us the next morning to walk the next two stages.
 
 
The second part of the day's long hike
 
 
Leaving the crowds of San Gimignano behind


 
It was hot walking through the vineyards in the afternoon sun. At Agriturismo Croce di Bibbiano they were kind enough to offer us a bottle of chilled water and a place to sit down in the shade for a few minutes.


 
Finally we came into Colle Val d'Elsa, a very oddly shaped town with a lower part and a long, narrow upper part built along the crest of a ridge. Fortunately for us, the upper and lower parts of the city are now connected by an elevator!
 
After walking all the way along the ridge of Castello, the upper part of the city, we finally came to our accommodations for the night: the monastery of San Francesco.
 
Domenico and I and a couple of other pilgrims were the only ones staying there. We had walked a very long way in hot weather, but after the usual routine of showering, washing out our sweaty clothes and figuring out a way to hang them up to dry, and putting on clean clothes (i.e. all the other clothes we had), that didn't stop us from going all the way back to the lower town later on for dinner at the award-winning Pizzeria Il Chicco, where I had one of the best pizzas I have ever eaten!
 

Sunday, September 20, 2015

Day 15: San Miniato - Gambassi Terme

25 km

5 km on the road out of San Miniato, and then all the rest was on footpaths and gravel roads. The landscape grew increasingly familiar along the way! 


Duomo di San Miniato


San Miniato 




Leaving San Miniato in the morning




From here on, the landscape looks more and more familiar!


Today's destination:  Ostello Sigerico, the hostel of the 12th century church of Santa Maria Assunta a Chianni





We arrived at the hostel quite early in the afternoon and spent the rest of the day there, watching it fill up, welcoming the arrival of familiar faces we had seen and talked with along the way, and speculating about the new and unfamiliar arrivals (two French-speakers... in matching pilgrims'robes???.... a family of Americans... pulling up in a taxi???)

After a couple of beers in the courtyard, chatting with the other pilgrims and the author of one of the guidebooks in the Terre di Mezzo series, who had stopped by to see how the hostel was doing and reminisce about his time on the Via Francigena, we were finally called to dinner by the wonderful family of volunteers who run the hostel.

In the dining hall


After-dinner grappa with Rudolf and Domenico, two of my walking companions over the past few days