Siena provincial trail no. 2, Day 3: Cuna - Vescovado di Murlo (14 km)

Today's walk was not as scenic as the first two stages - though that may have been partly due to the weather being rather grey and dull. The temperature was perfect for walking, however, and after yesterday I definitely didn't need more sun!

Under the Tuscan clouds

Had a little trouble picking up the right road leaving the Grancia in Cuna. Never ask passers-by for directions when walking - they don't know the trails. Not even dog-walkers! This lady sent me down a road that turned out to have a large gate right across it. And a large dog behind the gate! Finally I actually had to look at one of the hiking maps I have been collecting over the years, and then the route was clear to me. I climbed up the hill toward Le Caggiole somewhat hesitantly as the directions I have been following, from the mountain biking website, said there would be "sheepdogs to welcome you to the farm". But though there were several dogs, as well as sheep, the dogs didn't seem to be engaged in guarding the sheep, and were all friendly; one of the farmhands was out and about and walked with me on the stretch leading past the house, so the dogs were no trouble at all. What was a bother though was the tall grass on the way down the other side of the hill - got my feet and the lower half of my trousers quite wet! Surely it wouldn't be too much trouble for the people at the farm to cut the grass occasionally along this stretch of the path?

Fortunately the overgrown dirt track soon joined a gravel road leading to the village of Radi, where I had been hoping to get a cappuccino and a croissant - but no luck, the only bar in town seems to be closed on Mondays. If it ever actually opens! There was nobody around at all in Radi, and so I continued on toward Murlo, signposted as another 6 km. There was very little traffic on the gravel road, though whenever a car did pass, it raised quite a cloud of dust. There were no other walkers about, though I several cyclists passed me, including some with large saddle packs suggesting serious intentions. 

Shortly after leaving Radi I stopped for a break in a field with a view back toward the church I had just passed coming out of the village.

The road was lined with trees, but in the occasional breaks between trees the views were amazing, under a dramatic sky.

Can you see Siena on the horizon?

And as I began to tire, I slowed down and took some time to capture the wildflowers growing along the route on film. 

I arrived in Vescovado di Murlo at 11 am and, as the clouds were beginning to look more and more threatening, I decided to take the 11:50 bus back to Siena rather than proceeding on to the hamlet of Murlo and having lunch there. I took a stroll around the village of Vescovado, where I discovered it was market day - perfect! One stall sold pecorino cheese, and another apples. My favourite hiking snack! So I sat on the round bench you can see in the picture below and had my mid-morning energy pick-up right in the middle of the market square before picking up a bus ticket and heading for the bus stop on the main road. Shortly after I got to the stop it started raining - and then pouring! Luckily the bus driver was already starting his engines across the road, and let me get on early! 

Vescovado di Murlo on market day