Siena provincial trail no. 2, day 7: Castelnuovo dell'Abate - Bagno Vignoni (13 km)

Temperatures are beginning to rise but are still bearable for hiking in the morning, so I picked up provincial trail no. 2 where I left off the other day, in Castelnuovo dell'Abate. On this leg, it overlaps with provincial trail no. 6, which then heads off across the Val d'Orcia towards Pienza and Montepulciano.

Once again there were hot-air balloons flying over - three of them this time! - when I walked down to the bus stop. 

After getting off the bus at the junction in Montalcino I walked across the roundabout to the road to Sant'Antimo, where it was easy to get a ride to Castelnuovo dell'Abate. The beautiful bar with the view of Monte Amiata was unfortunately not yet open for cappuccino, so I headed off uphill on a gravel road with beautiful views back towards Sant'Antimo. This part of the trail was entirely in the sun, but luckily it was still early in the morning, and by the time the sun was growing hot, the trail had dipped into a valley and among the trees down by the Orcia River. 

Castelnuovo dell'Abate and the 12th century Abbey of Sant'Antimo

Trail no. 2 heads off towards Monte Amiata (in the distance).
But on this section, it overlaps with trail no. 6 to Pienza and Montepulciano

Now I know what to do with the next pair of hiking boots that gives up the ghost!

View of Monte Amiata, the extinct volcano responsible for all the hot springs in the area

The castle of Ripa d'Orcia

My guidebook said this hike was "long and challenging" and gave an estimated time of five and a half hours, but I realised that this is a guidebook for wimps, because although there were a few ups and downs along the way, in only three hours I was in Bagno Vignoni soaking my feet in the hotsprings! Despite having to backtrack after taking a wrong turn that would have taken me straight to the village without stopping for a soak in the free open-air spa at the bottom of the hill. 

Bagno Vignoni: the baths at the bottom of the hill

After taking a refreshing dip and a warm shower where the water splashes off the cliff, I dressed again and climbed to the village at the top of the hill for a spritz in the bar by the pool that forms the centre of the town. Here I made friends with a lovely couple from northern England who holiday in Bagno Vignoni every year. It's easy to make friends when you are walking - people get curious when they see your hiking boots, sticks and maps and strike up a conversation. If you have a big backpack and are obviously walking a long-distance route, that makes you even more interesting! A woman walked by the bar who was clearly on her way to Rome - the Via Francigena also goes through Bagno Vignoni. 

After my spritz and chat at the bar I moved on to the Parco dei Mulini, a cross between a park and an archaeological site where there used to be a tower containing a mill operated by the power of the water from the hot springs, and a building containing hot showers - rare in the 18th century! - until the complex was destroyed by earthquake. It was recently uncovered and made into a park, with an amazing view and a bench in the shade - the perfect place to eat my lunch and spend the rest of my time until the town's one daily bus came in! 

Bagno Vignoni: the town centre, with baths in place of the usual piazza!
Unfortunately bathing is no longer allowed here, but there are lots of lovely restaurants and bars around the outside of the pool

Another hike successfully concluded with a Spritz!