Via di Francesco (Via Ghibellina) Day 2: Antico Ospitale del Bigallo - Donnini

His soul had succeeded in transforming reality into a happy dream, more tangible and real than truth itself. In short, Francis had discovered what the Medieval alchemists were desperately seeking: the secret for turning the vilest metal into gold. 

- Nikos Kazantzakis, on Saint Francis

First full day of walking. We started off after 8, having waited for our host at the Antico Ospitale del Bigallo to come up from Florence bearing fresh coffee and homemade chocolate cake for breakfast! (The alternative being a frugal do-it-yourself breakfast of melba toast and tea.) 

We walked through the woods for most of the day, at times on ancient roads paved with flagstones. 

Along the way we encountered two beautiful country churches. The first was San Leolino, on the way into Rignano d'Arno, built around the year 1000.

We stopped at the co-op in Rignano sull'Arno for picnic supplies, then crossed the bridge over the Arno, climbed the hill out of the town and found a grassy spot under an olive tree for a lunch break. (Going shopping for one apple, one banana, a small chunk of cheese and a travel-sized toothpaste is the kind of thing that gives me the thrill of realising I'm really back on a cammino!) After this break we were somewhat dismayed to see that we were not done with the ups and downs yet: more hills awaited us in the afternoon of this day with a total elevation gain of 1000 metres - and a loss of about the same number, too. The hills always seem steeper in the afternoon when the sun is hot and the legs are getting tired... But eventually we reached the second beautiful country church of the day, Pieve di San Pietro a Pitiana.

After stopping for a while to admire the view from the terrace in front of the church, the altarpieces by Ridolfi di Ghirlandaio and the ninth-century bas-relief of Saint Peter wearing a Roman toga under the altar, we left the Via Ghibellina and walked along the roadside for one more kilometre to the village of Donnini. Over a cold drink, we waited for the tiniest co-op I have ever seen to reopen at four thirty so we could buy just enough groceries for our dinner. Then signora Carla met us to take us to Casa Memmo, where we have a little house all to ourselves for the evening, with two bedrooms, a kitchen / sitting room and, best of all, a garden with a table in the shade of the grapevines and a small above-ground swimming pool!

There's nothing like a dip in ice cold water to revive the circulation after a day walking up and down Tuscan hills under the sun!

Antico Ospitale del Bigallo - Donnini 23.5 km

Via di Francesco (Via Ghibellina) Day 1: Firenze - Antico Ospitale del Bigallo

C'è un tempo per fermarsi e un tempo per partire

There's a time to stay still, and a time to get going

Written on a bench in front of the church of Santo Stefano in Paderno

We have all been staying still for a long time, and the time has finally come to get going again! 

So I took the train to get going again right where I left off in October, at Florence cathedral. 

The route that I will follow for the next five days, as I resume my Long Walk from home (Chiavari) to Assisi, is known as the Via Ghibellina. Not born strictly as a pilgrimage route, the road was already in use in the days of the Roman Empire and became an important trade route linking Florence with the seaports of the Adriatic. Its importance grew when relations with Pisa deteriorated and Florence lost its access to this major seaport in the 12th century. The Via Ghibellina was also a military road for troops housed in Conte Guidi's castle in Poppi to come to the defence of the city of Florence, 60 kilometres away. Extended by one more day's walk beyond Poppi, the route of the Via Ghibellina connects with the start of the Via di San Francesco, the Way of St. Francis, at the sanctuary of La Verna, and so it is a traditional path for pilgrims on their way to Assisi, and potentially from there to Rome. 

All roads lead to Rome, and, as a number of shell symbols along the way reminded us, if you take the same roads in the opposite direction - all roads lead to Santiago!

Florence cathedral

Florence cathedral: Giotto's bell tower and Brunelleschi's dome

Upon arriving in Florence, I stopped by the cathedral and then left the (newly returned) hordes of tourists in shorts to head towards the church of Santa Croce, where I hoped things would be quieter - but no: a small group of Peruvians in colourful costumes waving red and white flags were holding a demonstration against corruption in their country right in the square in front of the church. 

I passed them by and entered the church, where Sunday Mass was about to begin. The perfect start to this section of my pilgrimage: a service in one of Italy's most beautiful Franciscan churches! 

By the time the service was over it was time to meet my walking companions for the Via Ghibellina: my daughter Sara and my friend Flavia, whom I met at a weekend training programme for volunteer ospitalieri, who host pilgrims in hostels along the pilgrimage routes of Europe, back in 2019.

The three of us set off at a brisk pace along the north bank of the River Arno, but were soon distracted by the tempting aromas wafting onto the path from a series of food trucks along the riverside. After stopping for sandwiches in a shady spot by the river we continued on, crossed the river and headed out of the city along the southern bank of the Arno, where there were no further distractions to halt our progress. Soon we had left the city limits and ventured into the municipality of Bagno a Ripoli, following the orange arrows of the Via Ghibellina and brand new red and white "Via di Francesco in Toscana" markers. 

After leaving the riverbanks, the orange arrows took us up into the hills, where we enjoyed the spectacular view over the city of Florence.

 

Here we are housed for the evening in the Antico Spedale di Bigallo, which has been welcoming pilgrims since 1214! In the renovations performed in the year 2000 the beds were rebuilt in medieval style, on little platforms, which makes for natural social distancing! 

We will be served dinner in the "monumental kitchen", as my guidebook describes it. Complete with monumental marble sinks, for washing a monumental quantity of dishes! 

Firenze - Antico Ospitale del Bigallo 13 km

Hey, ho, let's go!

Summer's here, and Gregory and I are ready to get back on the road!

We'll be updating you along the way...

Starting tomorrow in Florence!