Via di Francesco (Via Ghibellina) Day 1: Firenze - Antico Ospitale del Bigallo

C'è un tempo per fermarsi e un tempo per partire

There's a time to stay still, and a time to get going

Written on a bench in front of the church of Santo Stefano in Paderno

We have all been staying still for a long time, and the time has finally come to get going again! 

So I took the train to get going again right where I left off in October, at Florence cathedral. 

The route that I will follow for the next five days, as I resume my Long Walk from home (Chiavari) to Assisi, is known as the Via Ghibellina. Not born strictly as a pilgrimage route, the road was already in use in the days of the Roman Empire and became an important trade route linking Florence with the seaports of the Adriatic. Its importance grew when relations with Pisa deteriorated and Florence lost its access to this major seaport in the 12th century. The Via Ghibellina was also a military road for troops housed in Conte Guidi's castle in Poppi to come to the defence of the city of Florence, 60 kilometres away. Extended by one more day's walk beyond Poppi, the route of the Via Ghibellina connects with the start of the Via di San Francesco, the Way of St. Francis, at the sanctuary of La Verna, and so it is a traditional path for pilgrims on their way to Assisi, and potentially from there to Rome. 

All roads lead to Rome, and, as a number of shell symbols along the way reminded us, if you take the same roads in the opposite direction - all roads lead to Santiago!

Florence cathedral

Florence cathedral: Giotto's bell tower and Brunelleschi's dome

Upon arriving in Florence, I stopped by the cathedral and then left the (newly returned) hordes of tourists in shorts to head towards the church of Santa Croce, where I hoped things would be quieter - but no: a small group of Peruvians in colourful costumes waving red and white flags were holding a demonstration against corruption in their country right in the square in front of the church. 

I passed them by and entered the church, where Sunday Mass was about to begin. The perfect start to this section of my pilgrimage: a service in one of Italy's most beautiful Franciscan churches! 

By the time the service was over it was time to meet my walking companions for the Via Ghibellina: my daughter Sara and my friend Flavia, whom I met at a weekend training programme for volunteer ospitalieri, who host pilgrims in hostels along the pilgrimage routes of Europe, back in 2019.

The three of us set off at a brisk pace along the north bank of the River Arno, but were soon distracted by the tempting aromas wafting onto the path from a series of food trucks along the riverside. After stopping for sandwiches in a shady spot by the river we continued on, crossed the river and headed out of the city along the southern bank of the Arno, where there were no further distractions to halt our progress. Soon we had left the city limits and ventured into the municipality of Bagno a Ripoli, following the orange arrows of the Via Ghibellina and brand new red and white "Via di Francesco in Toscana" markers. 

After leaving the riverbanks, the orange arrows took us up into the hills, where we enjoyed the spectacular view over the city of Florence.

 

Here we are housed for the evening in the Antico Spedale di Bigallo, which has been welcoming pilgrims since 1214! In the renovations performed in the year 2000 the beds were rebuilt in medieval style, on little platforms, which makes for natural social distancing! 

We will be served dinner in the "monumental kitchen", as my guidebook describes it. Complete with monumental marble sinks, for washing a monumental quantity of dishes! 

Firenze - Antico Ospitale del Bigallo 13 km