The region of Cumbria is renowned for its awful weather - even in a country renowned for its awful weather. I spent a blustery day in Carlisle yesterday, catching up on some work commitments, visiting the exhibition about Hadrian's Wall at the Tullie House Museum and attending Evensong in the Cathedral. Not to mention stocking up on 20 p packets of biscuits at the McVities factory outlet!
I set off this morning to continue on my way under a glowering sky, following a riverside trail frequented by joggers and dog walkers through Bitts Park, past a miniature recreation of the Wall with its Roman forts. From there I passed through Rickerby Park, where "tree surgeons" were busy clearing away damage caused by last week's storm, and cows (they're all over the place here) breakfasted on leaves from branches they wouldn't normally be able to reach!
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| Hadrian's Wall in miniature, for the lazy Wall-walker |
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| It's getting closer! |
Today I met many Wall-walkers, going in both directions. Unlike the pilgrimage routes, the Hadrian's Wall Path can be walked in either direction - though many recommend walking west to east, as I am doing, in the same direction as the prevailing winds. And prevail they do - I was very glad to be walking with the wind, and not against it, on this blustery day!
Along the way I passed three or four self-service refreshment stations, offering cold drinks, a kettle for making tea, coffee and hot chocolate, cereal bars and other snacks, with a price list and an "honesty box" for payment. I stopped at a couple of them for a hot drink and a chat with other walkers.
In addition to other walkers, my constant companions are sheep and cattle. I'm now getting quite used to walking right in among them. They don't pay much attention to your passage. You just have to watch where you put your feet!
More evidence of the presence of Hadrian's Wall appeared today. First of all, in the form of place names, such as Oldwall, Walton or Wallhead.
Passing through the village of Crosby-on-Eden, the trail follows the course of the Stanegate Road, an ancient Roman road predating Hadrian's Wall linking Carlisle with Cornbridge.
In Bleatarn, the path follows a rise in the land over the foundations of Hadrian's Wall. Beside it is a hollow where stone was quarried to build the Wall.
Toward the end of the day the ground began to rise and fall in a foretaste of the rolling hills I expect to see in the two days to come. On the last of these rises, Hare Hill, stands the highest intact section of Hadrian's Wall, measuring three metres tall.
Soon after this I came to Quarryside bed & breakfast, where I have happily retired to a hot bath and a room full of books!
Carlisle - Banks 26.5 km
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