Road to Home 2022 Day 12: Collyweston - Gretton

28.5 km

It was one of those March days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold: when it is summer in the light, and winter in the shade.

Charles Dickens, Great Expectations

It's not March any more, but it's that sort of day! When I drew back the heavy curtains on the window of my palatial room at the Collyweston Slater and saw the sun shining brightly, I dressed lightly, but as soon as I was outside I put my puff jacket on! Crossing the fields in the sunshine I took it off again, then walking through the woods I was cold.... I finally settled on a windbreaker as the right compromise. 

I walked back a couple of kilometres along the Ketton Road to regain the Rutland Round footpath through the fields to the lovely village of Duddington. 

The old watermill, being restored to functional condition 

The village church was open and I tiptoed around the interior, not wanting to make a mess with my mucky boots. 

On the way out of the town I passed Pear Tree Cottage, with a thatched roof, before plunging into Fineback Wood, coming out at the park café, where I sat down for a toasted sandwich and a cup of tea . 

I set off down the footpath marked JW - Jurassic Way, but it led me to a field with a bull in it. This one was small and shaggy, like Highland cattle, but it had big horns and I didn't fancy it so I backtracked a little and walked along a very quiet road which soon rejoined my intended route, coming out behind the church at Wakerly. This cut a bend out of today's route, which is already zig-zaggy enough! 

St. John the Baptist Church, Wakerley 

Sheep in Wakerley 

A new use for an old phone booth

From Wakerley I crossed another field of sheep and a bridge over the River Welland to the neighbouring village of Barrowden. Barrowden has been home to a mill first recorded in 1259. The river not only powered the mill but provided water for use in the manufacture of farm implements and the tannery where hides from local cows were processed to make products such as rugs, drumskins and glue. The tannery closed in 1885 and was used as a factory for ammunition cases during WWII before being demolished. 

The tannery is gone but the street name remains 

I followed the signs to Barrowden & Wakerley Community Shop, a grocery shop and café run by volunteers from the two villages. I hadn't seen a food shop for two days and was as dazzled by the variety of choice as if I had been in an Asda superstore!! 

I bought a packet of raisins to liven up my morning oatmeal which I make with hot water from the kettle when my accommodations do not include breakfast, and some supplies for this evening and/tomorrow's lunch. Then I sat outside and devoured some fruit, yogurt and a sweet. Ten days or so into the walk I have regained not only my walker's legs but my walker's appetite! 

Barrowden was the birthplace of travel pioneer Thomas Cook. I passed a commemorative plaque on his house (I assume) on my way out of the town. 

More fields, more sheep, more thatched roof cottages in the hamlet of Shotley.... I crossed a road and walked round a car just as the driver was opening the door, giving her a bit of a fright. I caught an American accent, though tempered by years of living in England, and struck up a conversation. Kathy grew up in New York and Connecticut, lived most of her adult life in Bermuda and has been in Rutland for thirteen years. (She didn't know where it was before she came here, either 😅!) She has been a marine biologist, a sailing instructor and a school teacher and lived on a boat for five years. The two of us and her Labrador Retriever Ted crossed a few fields together before it was time for them to go back, and for me to continue on to Gretton, where I have a very comfortable room rented through airbnb with a lovely lady, Ann, who is also a walker.  We had a cup of tea in the garden and talked about travels. 

Kathy, Ted and I

Crossing the fields into Gretton, the 1878 Welland Viaduct was visible in the distance 

Ann's place has a hammock! 

Ann & Dean

Today's wiggly route