Road to Home 2022 Day 19: Berkhamsted - St. Albans

28 km

Every mile of the road heightens the flavour of the viands we expect at the end of it. How fine it is to enter some old town, walled and turreted, just at the approach of nightfall; or to come to some straggling village, with the lights streaming through the surrounding gloom; and then after inquiring for the best entertainment that the place affords, to “take one’s ease at one’s inn!”

- William Hazlitt, On Going a Journey (1822)

The flavour of today's walk was heightened by companionship, and by the prospect of more companions and a hearty meal in an inn at its end!

My friends and hosts in Berkhamsted, Jennifer and Matthew, walked with me from the Bridgewater Monument, where we left the trail yesterday, to the inn at the entrance to St Albans which claims to be England's oldest pub (established in 783), where we had an appointment to meet more historic friends of mine, Krista, Sam and their daughter Anna, for dinner. It worked out perfectly that I happened to be walking through the section of the trail closest to where they live precisely on my birthday!

After opening a very unusual birthday card from my aunt, which I had carried all this way so that I could open it this morning, and one from my hosts, we set off all together through the Ashridge estate, past the college now housed in what was in Victorian times the mansion of the British colonial secretary. 

We walked along forest paths and through fields all day. The landscapes were very green and pleasant and the weather was ideal for walking. 

We stopped in at Rumbler's Farm Shop, whuch sold flowers, fresh produce and cheeses, snacks and baked goods as well as cards and gift items, all on an honour system: there was nobody attending to the shop, just a scale, a price list and a card payment device. You had to check out your own purchases! I don't think that would work in many places other than the UK. We bought slices of home-made bread pudding, an ideal snack to keep us going until we got to the pub! 

The day passed quickly in company, and before we knew it we had passed Hemel Hempstead, where the trail took the long way round to St Albans, passing along a disused railway line, now a cycling track, through some more fields and along the River Ver to Verulamium, site of an ancient Roman settlement, now a vast park crowded with families enjoying a day out on this Jubilee holiday weekend.

Crossing the River Ver

London is getting closer!! 

Hedgehog (and bat?) crossing 

Established 783

Another reunion with long-lost friends! 

We had a lot of catching up to do as none of us had seen each other since before the pandemic! After sitting around at the pub all afternoon letting people buy me drinks, I enjoyed a lovely birthday dinner with all my friends. Then they dropped me off at the home of my Servas host family in St Albans. Mike and Kairbaan and their two teenaged children were just sitting down to dinner, so I joined them for some apple crumble and a cup of tea. In an odd coincidence, tomorrow is Mike's birthday, and I will be staying with them for two nights as the end of my bext stage is only ten minutes from St Albans on the train. So tomorrow I will get to celebrate another birthday, too!

Lots to read in my room in St Albans!