Via Romea Germanica Day 8: Becklingen - Sülze

Roads are a record of those who have gone before.

- Rebecca Solnit 

The bus that took me 2 kilometres off the Via Romea Germanica to my lodgings in the evening was not available to take me back to the trail in the morning, so I set off on foot through the hamlet of Becklingen and along the road to the railway line,  where I rejoined the trail and followed a dirt road through Becklinger Moor.

I passed a cluster of beautiful old farm buildings in the usual red brick style, with more roof than house and an inscription in Gothic letters over the door.

Then the trail went out into the open fields, where a potato farmer and his two young assistants stopped their tractor to say hello! 

Other than potato fields, I saw dairy farms (though the cows seemed to be staying in the barn out of the cold, lucky them) and one sheep farm. I passed an organic herb farm with a self-service shop selling ginger and turmeric. In the town of Bergen, I stopped at the tourist information office to get a stamp and to use the loo. The young lady on duty was, this time, very courteous and helpful, realised right away that I was a foreigner and spoke to me in perfect English. 

I didn't need anything else from Bergen, and as there didn't seem to be much to see, I continued on my way. The road out of town was a narrow paved lane recently planted with fruit trees, all in blossom. Children had tied colourful bits of paper to these Friedenbaume or "trees for peace", on which they had written messages of hope for peace in the world. The coloured bits of paper fluttered in the wind on the blossom-laden branches.

I then followed a forest trail punctuated with educational signs about the local birds and wildlife. In the middle of the forest was a Waldklassenzimmer, a forest classroom, with open-air "desks" and benches made from logs, all rather damp and mossy, but I had my waterproof trousers on. And there was another covered "classroom" nearby where I could go for shelter if it began to rain. It didn't, so I took my time eating all the food I had bought in Wietzendorf yesterday and not eaten because I had dinner in the hotel restaurant: bulgar salad, cucumber, tomatoes, some Baby Bell cheeses I had been carrying around for a couple of days, an apple and some chocolate!

Waldklassenzimmer 

Once I was up and walking again, however, it did start to rain, mixed with hail! And I was out in the open fields. I passed through a small village, but it afforded no shelter, unless I went right up to a house and stood under its eaves. But the rain soon eased off and so I carried on. The rainshowers returned on and off for the rest of the way into Sülze, about an hour and a half. But I was well-waterproofed and arrived only slightly damp around the edges. 

I reached the Lutheran church of the village of Sülze, a day's walk north of Celle. The church was open and I took a look inside.

My accommodation for the evening was in the church community centre next door. As instructed, I let myself in and then called the sexton (or sacrestan, the man who takes care of church buildings). He came over right away and showed me the facilities. Next to the meeting room there is, as usual, a big kitchen with cupboards containing hundreds of cups, glasses and plates for community gatherings, with plenty of coffee and tea, kettles and coffeemakers. There are toilets (no shower). Best of all, this community centre has an upstairs sitting room, just like a home living room, with sofas, coffee tables, a TV, board games and a table. This is where I am hanging out - and sleeping - tonight!

Cream of asparagus cup-a-soup, smoked salmon and cream cheese sandwiches, carrot sticks & yogurt, herbal tea

Becklingen - Sülze 24 km