Another relaxing day. Stayed in my garret in Aix for as long as I could, left at check-out time (11), mailed some postcards and then sat outside waiting for the Musée Garnet to open at 12 so I could see the "Cézanne at home" exhibition opening today. Irritated the museum staff once again with my large backpack, then, having passed it through security and stowed it safely away, impressing tourists with my savoir-faire regarding the museum's high-tech lockers (having learned to operate them on my previous visit only two days ago), toured the Cézanne exhibition, which was small but significant, worth coming back for.
While waiting for the museum to open, I was offered a calisson, a local specialty made with marzipan
I left Aix at lunch time, laden down with a backpack full of provisions - having a flat with a kitchen inspired me to cook, ratatouille with chickpeas and rice, enough to feed Napoleon's army - or a hungry pilgrim for at least three days. I also had breakfast supplies and a loaf of bread. My heavy backpack and I proceeded along Cours Mirabeau, across the Rotonde and out into the suburbs, which gradually became a construction site and then a country lane running parallel to the railway line through leafy residential neighbourhoods. After picnicking in a field to celebrate my return to the rustic life, I walked a kilometre or so along the shoulder of the highway, the good old D17 we had followed into Aix two days earlier. Then the pilgrim trail turned off the highway at an old lavoir, into the pleasant village of Les Figones.
From here it was only a short walk to Éguilles, where my hostess awaited me at the ideal airbnb: a "mother-in-law suite" at the bottom of the garden, separate from the main house but with everything necessary for an overnight stay. And an invitation for a glass of rosé in the garden, where I actually managed to sustain a conversation in French for an hour or so!
Éguilles is famous for its lavoirs
It's easy to see how Cubism was born in the south of France. Ordinary people live in Cubist houses. If anything, it's hard to see why not everybody is a Cubist painter!
Aix - Éguilles 12.5 km
Bonne nuit!
No comments:
Post a Comment