33.5 km
Yesterday I shortened the distance by stopping in the village of Proceno instead of continuing on to Acquapendente, and today I paid the price!
I woke up early in the morning and as soon as it was light I walked the remaining 7 km through the woods to Acquapendente. But there was so much to see and do there, I tarried too long... I needed to buy a couple of things, and luckily it was market day in town. Then I went to the civic museum to see the 26 metre long reproduction of the entire Via Francigena in relief. And on the way out of town I stopped at the cathedral - the beautiful medieval crypt was a great surprise! I'll upload photos as soon as I have a good enough internet connection...
After leaving Acquapendente I walked through farmland for the rest of the morning, without seeing a soul along the way.
I stopped to eat my lunch and take a rest in a public park coming into the town of San Lorenzo Nuovo, which is in fact "nuovo", in the sense that the oldest buildings I saw might have been a couple of hundred years old. That's new, for Italy!
From San Lorenzo Nuovo I walked along a path through the woods marked "Via Francigena" and "Tempio". After a while the two paths split, but by now I was curious about the temple so I followed that one. I can't resist an archaeological site... Just call me Indiana Joanne!
I probably should have stayed on the Via Francigena because there wasn't much to see - the Temple was an archaeological dig still underway and mostly covered with white plastic sheeting. From there Google Maps showed me an alternative, shorter route to the hostel out in the country above Bolsena that I was aiming for, but it was still a long way - and the hostel turned out to have closed for the season. So it was getting dark by the time I came into Bolsena and found the Casa di Preghiera Santa Cristina, right in the old town. I called the number on the door and the priest who answered sent a volunteer to welcome me right away. Once again I have the whole place to myself, which is a bit eerie in this case because there are rooms and rooms of bunk beds - the place is set up for Scout groups and the like. I even have my very own private chapel, and a glow in the dark statue of Mary on the patio where I hung out my laundry!
I was too tired to walk far in search of a restaurant, but luckily there's a bookshop and cafè right across the street that makes an excellent bowl of pumpkin soup. My only criticism: the wifi is not strong enough to upload photos!!
17 km before lunch...
...and close to 17 more after!
The dawning of another day on the road
Leaving Proceno in the early morning light
Path through the woods where I pray I won't meet any wild boar
Acquapendente
Acquapendente
The city walls as seen from inside the bishop's palace (now the city museum)
Relief model of the Via Francigena
In the crypt of the cathedral
After leaving Acquapendente the countryside changed; I walked through farmland
Cornfields
Solar fields
Abandoned farmhouse
Through the town of San Lorenzo Nuovo
Along a woodland path, taking a detour to an ancient temple site
Where there wasn't really much to see, but there was a magnificent view of the lake!
Finally, a bed! This time I chose the top bunk.
Nice to see that Mother Mary slept in a sheet sack just like me!
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